Retransition

Day 30: Port Pirie to Adelaide; 220 km (car); Adelaide to Strathalbyn; 61 km; 17 kph (bike)


Time to turn in my trusty, if somewhat decrepid Hyundai Getz. It got me about 8,000 km around the "big loop" of Australia despite having two bald front tires, a slow leak in a rear tire, two "star" cracks in windshield, and a dented rear bumper (all done BEFORE I got car). It served me well, but I am glad to back on my bicycle.


Speaking of which, what a surprise, back on the bike and riding into a headwind. That's actually ok as I didn't have too far to go today and the forecast is for better wind conditions in days to come. I'll take a headwind on a 60 km day and a tailwind on a 140 km day anytime!

The ride out of Adelaide was actually quite stunning; to exit town to the south as I did, one must immediately climb into the Adelaide Hills and they are pretty high, more than 1,000' vertically! What went up (me) on a great bike path alongside a very busy freeway eventually got to come back down on quieter country roads, eventually into the eclectic little town of Strathalbyn. This town has a pretty podunk caravan park where they have on-site vans and campers parked on beautiful bent grass lawns and they send tent campers to the worst grass in the place along the back fence. Granted it was fairly quiet once the ever-present birds went to sleep and overall worked out fine.

Town itself is truly lovely with a great lake/stream park right "downtown". I ate my picnic dinner at table shown below amongst about 300 screaming cockatoos (not shown). Also not shown is the historic restored Victoria Hotel/Motel and--get this--a 50-meter public swimming pool. It was too late for me to try to swim when I saw it, but 50-meter pools are quite rare even in good-sized cities and I always try to use them when I can. This was one place it's too bad the Timberline trip didn't get to ride through. It was slated to be the last stop on the second tour and would have been perfect, a real treat to close out the trip.

Wow, as I type this I realize I am all caught up on blog posts. Thank goodness for the library in Menengie, South Australia where I've been sitting at a free terminal for more than two hours. Couple of other things on my Internet "to check" list so I'll close. Although I am not answering everyone individually, thanks for the comments and emails. I'll do better catching up when I get back to the states. I'll be doing some pretty high mileage rides in the upcoming days so will probably fall behind on posts, etc. again.

The Long Way Round

Day 27 (11/30): Port Denison to Norseman; 1,000 km; Budget Camper at Caravan Park

Day 28 (12/1): Norseman to Nundroo Roadhouse; 1,050 km; "Backpackers Lodge" at Roadhouse

Day 29 (12/2): Nundroo to Port Pirie; 710 km; Caravan Park

Covered a lot of ground in this section, much of it stunningly beautiful and exceedingly difficult emotionally. Obviously I must explain. Between Norseman and Nundroo, Highway 1 crosses the border back into South Australia. In this section, the road goes along the Great Australian Byte for about 200 km and also crosses a short stretch of the Nullarbor (tree-less) plain (the bulk of the Nullarbor plain--it is hundreds of miles wide--is further north of the coastal road). When Sandy and I rode here in 1992, this was probably the best couple of days riding on the whole trip. Driving back through this section and especially stopping at a couple of the places we stopped at then (they have not changed) was pretty much heart wrenching. There was a maelstrom of thoughts going through me contributing to this but probably the easiest to express was that I was not able to look back on those times with joy, I was just sad at what I/we lost and all the pain that that has entailed. Once I get this whole thing figured out I'll just have to come back and once again feel the joy this place has to offer.

Need to move on from this place/post for now, couple of other noteworthy items. No pictures but the "backpackers lodge" at Nundroo was a hoot. For $10 (about $7 US), I had a large room with 5 beds, table and chairs, fridge, and TV all to myself (there were no other "backpackers" that night as I doubt there are too often). It was great and lodge even had picture window facing west to yet another amazing sunset, which I did get a picture of. Note that the camper shown below is the one I stayed in Norseman (wind was up so I passed on camping). This one set me back a whopping $20 Australian! Finally, between Norseman and Nundroo is also the longest straight stretch of road in Australia (used to be in Guiness Book of World Records, not sure if it still is). It isn't completely flat, but it is absolutely straight!

Swimming With The Fishes--Sort Of

Day 24 (11/27): Broome to Karratha; 830 km; Karratha Caravam Park

Day 25 (11/28); Karratha to Monkey Mia; 980 km; Monkey Mia YHA Hostel

Day 26 (11/29); Monkey Kia to Port Denison; 530 km; Caravan Park

First worthy of mention on this post was my night in Karratha. Here I ended up camping in a caravan park frequented mostly by "homeless" working folks, some of whom had campers, some of whom slept in their vehicles (parked in grassy "tent area" see below). After Broome, this was a breath of fresh air. Three of these guys hanging out when I arrived quickly struck up an interesting/friendly conversation, offered me a beer and a feed (dinner), and though hard-core working stiffs, were generally just nice guys. It was delightful and they were a hoot. Oh, like many caravan parks (with trees and water), this place was overrun with birds, many whie cockatoos.

Ok, though Karratha was nice, the highlight of this trip section was definitely Monkey Mia. Nice hostel, beautiful beach setting, and unique dolphin experience. Quick history lesson: Dolphins already frequenting this area used to follow fishing boats into Monkey Mia looking for cleaning scraps (1960's); a local woman started feeding them (late 60's); someone started selling buckets of fish to tourists who fed lots of dolphins all day (originally just a few tourists until they paved the road in then lots of tourists; 70's); dolphin juviniles started dying because moms fed at beach all day weren't teaching them how to survive (80's); government steps in to control situation (mid 90's I think).

Now, only five specific named female dolphins known to already have survival skills are fed no more than 20% of their daily fish needs each day between 8 am and noon. There is also a strict no-touch policy. So, up to three times each morning, the "annointed" dolphins swim into feeding area and just lay in the water until the rangers/volunteers feed them their two or three fish (from steel buckets--see picture); then they leave and we/humans leave. While this is going on, other dolphins (including children and grandchildren of moms getting fed) are frolicking around nearby in the water. It is a bit corny/silly but seems like a sustainable setup and it was cool to see the dolphins so up close.

Other than Karratha and Monkey Mia, the other notable item of this leg was that I moved south far enough that the weather has cooled off enormously. It still gets pretty warm inland during the day but nights are now in the low-60's--great sleeping temps. Yay. Enjoy the pics, hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. They don't celebrate it here at all so I had no turkey although my fellow campers did give me some chicken they had cooked up.

Also, as you can see from the stats above, I'm doing way too much driving, but there is a reason. Based on changing from riding to driving the "big loop" portion of this trip,I decided a while back I would probably return to the states prior to my originally planned 2/17/09 date. Contacted Qantas on 11/27 and found out I could only fly home with no penalty on Christmas day; pay big bucks to change to another January date, or stay with my original date. I have opted for the Christmas date. I hope I am making the right decision, doesn't feel completely "right" (whatever that means), but the riding I still plan to do will only take about three weeks (up until late December), so this date seems to make sense versus the alternatives.

Broome

Day 23 (11/26); Broome, West Australia, Layover Day

Like many of the places I am seeing on this fairly rapid circumnavigation of the northwest portion of Australia, Broome is another place I would like to return to and spend maybe a week or so (preferably not alone next time either). Tried to fit in a fair amount of sightseeing along with a measure of relaxation not driving for a change. Besides getting a nice run in early, probably the highlight of the day was a visit to famous cable beach. Probably the largest, most pristine beach I have ever seen. Not that I did, but you can drive on beach (as people seem to do just to get to where they want to hang out); few were doing so, just not that many people around for such a large expanse of sand.

The hostel I stayed in was a busy, bustling place but everyone was so intent on whatever they were up to, I actually felt a bit lonely there. I did really like the open air setup though. I think a lot of foreigners who were staying there were also working too; thus not the typical tourists generally interested in interacting with others of the same ilk. Did get two good nights sleep in a full 4-bunk room with no snorers; what a bonus.

As you'll see below, Aussies have a different perspective on right-of-way. I stopped once earlier on drive to let someone cross street, driver behind me thought I was nuts and almost rear ended me. Also, that is a Boab tree--I saw some much bigger but couldn't get a shot of them. All for now.

On The Road Again

Day 20 (11/23): Alice Springs to Katherine; 1170 km; Katherine Motel


Day 21 (11/24): Katherine to Halls Creek; 870 km; Escarpment Walk/Gregory Nat. Park (3km); Kimberly Motel


Day 22 (11/25): Halls Creek to Broome; 680 km; Kimberly Klub Hostel


Back in the late 1990's when I still had my old technical writer's job, while daydreaming at work I'd occasionally check the weather in Broome, West Australia. Just seemed like one of the farthest places on earth from where I was at the time. Well, today I began the long journey from Alice Springs headed toward Broome. Granted it was nearly 3000 km and three days drive away, but that was where my mind was.

Even though 3000 km gets smaller when converted to miles, it is still a longggggg way. Especially when the temperature outside goes up above 40 C (104 F)! In both Katherine and Halls Creek when I arrived early each evening, the temperature was well above 30 C, with humidities pushing 70% or more. Even with an air conditioned car, this heat just sucks the energy from you. Rather than prolong this experience an extra two days/600+ kms more of driving, I decided shortly before reaching Katherine to forgo heading all the way to the "top end" and Darwin. Thus, at the crossroads in Katherine I turned west for the coast and Broome directly.

In light of the heat/humidity, except for a short walk around the Devil's Marbles and a longer walk up the Escarpment Walk in Gregory National Park (see pictures of both below), these last three days were spent mostly in the drivers seat or hiding in air conditioned rooms. I did see one loaded touring cyclist yesterday but did not attempt to stop or talk to him. Can't say I was jealous this time at all as I usually am seeing a tourer!

Arrived here in Broome yesterday afternoon and made my way to the Kimberly Klub YHA hostel. This is a pretty big hostel but also very nice. Much like Hawaii, it is mostly open air, except for air conditioned sleeping rooms. Its is warm and sticky, but I really like the fresh air!
I wrote last night in my journal that I'd like to come back here one day in their dry/cooler season (April--October) with Nola and spend about a week. Not sure it would be biking, but I think I'll put it on the long-term list. I'll only scratch the surface with my one day layover, but there is lots to do here. Of course I am getting ahead of myself, that will have to wait for the next post.

For those of you with a map, FYI, I will be taking the coastal route down towards Perth. Next destination from here is Monkey Mia (two days drive). Not sure if I'll do another layover day there. In the interest of time and because driving in busy cities is still pretty tense for me (left side of the road thing), I will probably bypass downtown Perth and make my way east once I get down that way. But again, I get ahead of myself.

Well, tomorrow is Thanksgiving day here. I'm glad to have the Internet/cheap phone cards to help stay connected to you all back home, but it will be nice to come back too. In the meantime, I'll give thanks tomorrow as I have the opportunity to traverse another small slice of this huge country. Perhaps I'll be swimming with the dolphins on your actual holiday.

Cheers all.

Rest in Alice

Day 19 (11/22): Alice Springs Layover

This is going to be a quick post as I have no pictures and did not do much of anything this day. About the only productive thing I did was go for a nice run in the morning along the Todd River, which is normally dry but has now started flowing again as they have had some good rains here lately. I also got in a good shopping trip for (cheap) groceries at Woolworths (woolies). Have to take advantage of Woolies or Coles (the other big chain here) when I see them as they are about half the price of food stores in the smaller towns. I have also found that eating "out" is pricey here so it is much more economical to cook your own dinner--but you must have something to cook to do so. Oh, also got a good nap in this afternoon; perhaps the highlight of the day!

Off on the road again tomorrow! Cheers all.

Kata Tjuta and Uluru National Park

Day 17 (11/20): Yulara to Kata Tjuta N.P. and back; 110 km (bicycle); 23 kph; Valley of the Winds and Olga Gorge Hikes (10 km); Pioneer Motel/Hostel

Day 18 (11/21); Yulara to Alice Springs; 460 km (car); Uluru Base Walk (12 km); Alice's Secret Hostel

Thursday was a very full day! Got a good early start and headed out by bicycle (with a single partially loaded pannier, man that felt good) for Kata Tjuta National Park (The Olga's). Had a nice tail wind for most of the 53 km ride over--that was sweet as well. Once at the Olga's, I did the two main hikes there, the Valley of the Winds and the Olga Gorge hikes. Both these trails were very scenic as I walked around/below/past a number of the dozens of red sandstone domes that make up the park. It was quite hot too I might add, probably pushing 40 C in the sun (over a hundred F!).

After the hike, I hopped back on the bike to find the wind had shifted to a northery breeze. That made it hotter but also mostly a cross wind on way back, not the head wind I was expecting. I really liked that as I had had enough of the sun when I got back to the hotel about 4 pm. No sunset on Uluru tonight, was out cold by about 8:30 pm (alone this night in my 4-bunk room, shared with a german couple previous evening).

Next morning packed up, gassed up, and headed back to Uluru. My dilemna as to whether to climb Ayers rock (you are allowed to do so but strongly discouraged by Aboriginal owners--they ask you to "choose not to climb") was made easy--the climb was closed because rain was forecast. So along with many others, I did the walk around Uluru. Fortunately, they all went clockwise, I went anticlockwise (not sure why I did this) so passing large groups went very quickly and I was alone most of the time. While Uluru is probably more impressive from a distance it is quite powerful and moving up close and personal. Like many things in nature, it is amazing how large it is too! The number of intricate features you can see from close up are also fascinating; cracks, gashes, streaks of color, hollowed out holes, pockmarks, etc. Many of these have aboriginal stories attached to them, some described on signs, others revealed only to properly instructed individuals (not yours truly of course).

Again, it was quite warm on the hike and subsequent 5-hour drive up to Alice Springs. I even closed up the car and used the a/c for the first time on the trip. Made my way through busy town to Alice's Secret hostel, a small, friendly, cosy place 5-minutes walk from "downtown." Getting back into a busy town (already tired from day's activities) I had to be careful again driving on left. Did pretty well navigating--didn't get lost a single time! Walking into town for dinner after showering I did get soaked in a 5-minute downpour, but it was hot enough that it felt kind of good.

I feel a bit typed out and have some other web research to do so will close. Hope everyone is well and happy so far away. Cheers!